When people think about France, Paris is what they picture. And while Paris is the shiny showpiece, Lyon feels more like real French life. It’s a city of colorful morning markets, riverside walks, one-of-a-kind boutiques, windy cobblestone streets and stairs (lots of stairs!), and long lunches in bouchons where neighboring tables of locals will strike up a conversation. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Lyon.

After moving to Lyon in 2025, I quickly understood how it earned its place as the best food city in France. People will tell you that Paris is the head of France and Lyon is its stomach. If you are interested in diving deep into French food culture, you will love Lyon.

Even better, Lyon is more than bouchons and Michelin stars. Lyon is frequently called the most walkable city in France and even in all of Europe. It’s easy to navigate on foot or by its fast and easy public transport and is full of beautiful neighborhoods that each have their own vibe. And if you’re traveling with kids, it’s a great option. Almost all of my favorite things to do in Lyon are great for kids (see the complete list below)

Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or planning a longer stay, this guide covers the best places to eat, where to stay, what to do, and the insider tips I share with all of my friends and family who come to visit.

Why Visit Lyon?

Lyon is a 2 hour train ride to the southeast of Paris. It’s a great stopping point on your way to the Alps, which you can often see from Lyon, directly to the East. It is is France’s third-largest city and the capital of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Lyon is known for:

• rich food culture (both French food and beyond)
• unique architecture
• walkability and excellent public transportation
• vibrant local markets
• central location with access to the Alps and Provence
• a slower, more relaxed pace than Paris

It’s also one of the best cities in Europe for people who want an accessible mix of culture, food, walkability, and affordability without the overwhelm and cost of a major tourist capital.

When to Visit

Lyon is hot and dry in the summer (July and August), cold and gray in the winter (December, January, and February). The fall and spring are long and beautiful. My favorite times to visit are September and October or April and May.

If you like to visit during a big event, book your visit during the Visit During Fête des Lumières in December. This annual light festival of massive light installations projected across buildings takes over the whole city and attracts visitors from around the world. It’s a busy time to visit.

How Long to Stay

At a minimum, you’ll want 2 full days in Lyon. 3 days is ideal. And if you want to take a day trip like to Pérouges or Annecy or go do a wine tasting, add one day for that.

Note: Most restaurants and nearly all stores are closed on Sundays. If you’re here over a Sunday, keep that in mind.

How to Get Here

By Air

Fly into Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport. Lyon is an hour flight from Paris and many other major European cities. The airport is 30 minutes away from the center of the city. You can easily take the Rhônexpress (an airport tram) to Part-Dieu station where you’ll then grab the metro or a tram to get to your hotel. The Rhônexpress is €16 one-way for an adult. If traveling with a group, I recommend hiring a car ahead of time. Our family of five usually pays €90 one-way from the airport to our apartment.

By Train

As with most of Europe, the train is an excellent way to get to and from Lyon. It’s 2 hours by train from Paris. Most trains come in and out of Part-Dieu station and you can then take the metro or a tram to get around town. If you’re staying in the center of the city, like in Presqu’île, look for trains that will take you all the way to Perrache station. Perrache is between Presqu’île and Confluence and some trains (like some of those from Paris) will take you all the way to Perrache and then you’ll be right in the city.

Don’t Get a Rental Car

I strongly discourage you from getting a rental car unless you’ll be traveling a lot outside of Lyon to places you can’t reach by train. One of the must frustrating weeks of my life in Lyon was the week I had a rental car here (and we have a garage!). Recent green initiatives in the city have made it extremely accessible by public transportation and much less so by car. It is a headache to drive and park here and you will inevitably end up sitting in traffic.

Where to Stay

Every neighborhood has its own personality. But if you’re here on vacation, being central is key. Here are my top picks, in order of preference for where to stay in Lyon.

Presqu’île

If it’s your first visit, Presqu’île is my top recommendation. This is the center of the peninsula located between the Rhône and Saône rivers. Here you’ll find pedestrian walkways between large central squares. It’s full of restaurants, shopping streets, monuments, and beautiful architecture.

You can walk almost everywhere in central Lyon from Presqu’île or take a short ride on the metro or tram.

The vibe of Presqu’île is:

• grand boulevards
• huge open squares
• large hotels (including many international chains)
• all forms of public transportation

Where to stay in Presqu’île:

• Hotel Carlton
• 2-bedroom AirBnb on Place Bellecour (we had friends who stayed here and it was big, quiet and convenient; no air-conditioning so best for cooler months)
• 4-bedroom AirBnb (we had friends who stayed here and it was also great; note that the building’s elevator stops one floor below the apartment; has air-conditioning, which is a must in the summer)

Croix-Rousse

This is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Lyon. Once home to Lyon’s silk workers, Croix-Rousse feels local, creative, a little edgy, and slightly village-like. There are lots of markets, unique shops, and great bakeries.

The vibe of Croix-Rousse is:

• windy narrow streets
• street art and “street art” (graffiti)
• smaller boutique hotels
• sweeping views over Lyon
• lots of steps and hills

Where to stay in Croix-Rousse:

• Hotel Fort St Laurent Lyon – Accor (we stayed here every time we visited Lyon and always loved it; great breakfast; gorgeous patio for drinks; air-conditioning; AND they have rooms that can fit a family of 4 or 5)

Vieux Lyon

Vieux Lyon is the city’s historic old town and one of the largest Renaissance districts in Europe. This area is a must-see on any visit to Lyon. You’ll want to eat in a bouchon, ride the funicular to Fourvière, and check out the hidden passageways called traboules.

I recommend staying here with caution because it can be very packed with tourists roaming the cobblestone streets.

The vibe of Vieux Lyon is:

• historic cobblestone streets
• colorful buildings and hidden passageways
• ancient buildings with windy staircases
• tiny pocket parks and squares
• Instagram-worthy views and photos

I don’t currently have a go-to recommendation for staying here because your best bet will be to find short-term rentals. If you stay or have stayed somewhere great in Vieux Lyon, please send me your recommendation.

6th Arrondissement

Located just east of the Rhône River, the 6th arrondissement is one of Lyon’s most elegant residential neighborhoods. Compared to the busier atmosphere of Presqu’île or Vieux Lyon, the 6th feels calmer, more polished, and distinctly residential.

It’s not my top pick for places to stay, especially for shorter visits, because it won’t feel right in the heart of the city. However, it’s popular with families and travelers looking for a quieter, more comfortable home base while still staying close to things. Keep in mind that you’ll probably be hopping on public transportation or walking a bit to see the main attractions.

The vibe of the 6th is:

• wide modern boulevards with traffic during peak hours
• classic Haussmann-style buildings
• very residential
• easy access to the city’s huge, beautiful park – Parc de la Tête d’O

I don’t currently have a go-to recommendation for staying in the 6th because your best bet will be to find short-term rentals. If you stay or have stayed somewhere great in the 6th, please send me your recommendation.

Confluence

Modern, sleek, and very family-friendly, Confluence is full of newer buildings, riverfront walking paths, shopping, and contemporary architecture. It’s south of the Perrache train station and a bit cut off from Presqu’île.

I’m giving this neighborhood a shout-out because there are a few hotels that might come up in your search and might be a good fit for you. However, I don’t really recommend staying in Confluence unless there is a compelling reason to. It’s not the classic French or Lyon experience you’ll be picturing as a visitor.

But if you end up here, you’ll easily be able to access the rest of the city, and if you’re traveling as a family, you’ll like how quiet it is. Our family lives in Confluence and we love it! Just not my top pick for visitors.

What to Do in Lyon

You’ll have a great time wandering around the different neighborhoods of Lyon, but here are my must-do activities.

1) Ride the Funicular to Fourvière

The Lyon’s most iconic landmarks.

From Vieux Lyon station, ride the funicular up to the top and explore the area around the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. It’s beautiful on the inside, and outside there are panoramic views over the entire city. There’s also a cute little shop with souvenirs on the square next to Pignol.

From there, walk downhill toward Ancient Theatre of Fourvière, Lyon’s remarkably preserved Roman amphitheater. It’s the oldest Roman theater in France and a centerpiece of Lyon’s UNESCO World Heritage–listed historic area. My kids love climbing and exploring this large area. In the summer it hosts concerts.

My favorites:

• pastry or coffee at Pignol cafe (it can get crowded, but on nice days there is outdoor seating)

2) Explore Vieux Lyon and find the Traboules

You don’t need to have a plan in Vieux Lyon. Just meander the streets, stop in stores that interest you, and taste anything that looks good along the way.

Be sure to check out Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, and peek around the back to explore the ruins and find nice playground in the shade (if you have kids).

Lyon’s hidden passageways (traboules) are one of its most unique features. Originally used by silk workers to transport fabric to the river while protecting it from the elements and then later used by the French resistance to move around without drawing attention from German soldiers, you can feel the history in these.

They cut through buildings, courtyards, and staircases throughout the city, but many of the publicly accessible ones are in Vieux Lyon. You can find the public ones by a quick google map search. Just be sure to be quiet and respectful as you walk through them because people still live above these passageways.

My favorites:

• take a food tour with Anna in Lyon (must book ahead; I loved this tour with Anna – here’s a short video I made of our experience)
• ice cream at Glacier Terre adélice (there are a few locations, but this one is very charming; they sell delicious ice cream but also some really weird flavors if you’re into that sort of thing…which I am)

3) Explore Croix-Rousse

Start the morning at the neighborhood market on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, one of the best outdoor markets in Lyon. Afterward, spend time exploring the side streets that wind around the neighborhood. This part of Lyon is full of hidden courtyards, murals, staircases, and tiny independent shops that reward wandering without a plan.

Stop for a long lunch at a neighborhood café or bouchon, then spend the afternoon browsing bookstores, pastry shops, and small boutiques before walking downhill toward the city center. The descent offers some of the best panoramic views in Lyon, especially around sunset.

My favorites:

• do the wine tasting with Lyon Wine Tastings (must book ahead; we had an absolute blast at this wine tasting – here’s a short video I made)
• lunch or dinner at Daniel et Denise
• learn about the history of the silk workers in Lyon at Maison des Canuts (it’s very small)
• grab a drink on the patio at Hotel Fort St. Laurent for sweeping views of the city

4) Shopping and Snacking on Presqu’île

Stroll down the large pedestrian streets from Place Carnot to Hôtel de Ville (or the opposite direction, or anything in between), but focus on exploring the side streets for shopping and snacks. You’ll find great restaurants and shops, but here are a few I love:

• grab a coffee or glass of wine at an outdoor table at Café des Jacobins (the food isn’t remarkable but the view of the square is perfect for sipping and relaxing)
• stop by Cigoire for truly unique local items
• get a pastry at Pralus (the crescent and all its variations are beyond)
• grab a drink at any of the outdoor cafes along the Saône
• get savory crêpes and a glass of cider at Breizh Café (there are locations of this casual spot all over France, but the food is always delicious, fairly light, and they serve food all afternoon, so you can grab a late lunch or early dinner, unlike at most other restaurants in Lyon that hold to strict French meal times)
• check out the unique stationary selection at Yolili papeterie
• lunch or dinner at Brasserie des Deux Rives (one of our favorite spots – reservation recommended)
• find the most incredible array of unique gifts at Les Creations Lyonnaise (the biggest location is down the escalator at Hôtel Dieu – Cour du Midi where there’s also a nice little covered area to grab a drink)
• dinner at Gaheca (super cozy dining room down in a cave – perfect for cold rainy days or really hot days)

5) Explore Parc de la Tête d’Or

The park is huge and beautiful – it’s Lyon’s Central Park (though it’s a bit out of the way, not exactly central). There is a small free zoo in the center of the park. If the weather is nice, there are places to grab a drink along the lake and you can rent paddle boats too.

For adults, rent an electric bike at any of the MANY locations through VeloV (you’ll need the app). You can just hop on and bike around Parc de la Tête d’Or.

For kids, the park has a number of playgrounds and paid attractions like pony rides and a small go-cart track.

6) Snack through Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is Lyon’s most famous indoor food market and a fun place to meander for anyone interested in French food culture. It’s very busy at lunch hour, so try to visit a little before lunch if you want to grab a seat for lunch or mid-afternoon if you want to check it out when it’s quiet.

It’s named after legendary chef Paul Bocuse. At small booths vendors sell oysters, local artisan cheeses, pastries, chocolates, charcuterie, and regional wines. It’s polished, lively, and unmistakably Lyonnais.

While it’s more expensive and touristy than a neighborhood market, it’s still one of the best places in the city to sample local specialties in one stop.

What to Eat in Lyon

Lyon is often called the gastronomic capital of France, and honestly, the reputation is deserved. This is not a city where meals are rushed. And if you like talking about food, people here will want to talk to you about it!

Try a Traditional Bouchon

A bouchon is a traditional Lyonnais restaurant serving hearty regional dishes.

Expect:

• quenelles
• saucisson brioché
• salade lyonnaise
• rich sauces
• cozy dining rooms

Some bouchons are touristy, while others still feel deeply local.

Visit the Markets

One of the best ways to experience Lyon is simply by wandering through a neighborhood market in the morning. Grab things for a picnic to enjoy along one of the rivers or in Parc de la Tête d’Or. A quick search will help you find markets that are operating on the days you’re in town.

Keep an Eye out for Desserts

Lyon has an incredible pastry and dessert scene.

Look for:

• pink pralines (and the pastries made from it)
• praline brioche (you’ll see people all over town carrying the colorful bags from Pralus)
• seasonal fruit tarts
• artisan ice cream
• local chocolate from Voisin

What did I miss?

Have you been to Lyon or do you live here? What are your recommendations? Are there questions you have that I didn’t answer? Tell me in the comments!